TRAVEL SCRAPBOOK
From vibrant but overcrowded Yangon to the faded splendour of Bago or the new orderliness and open spaces of Nay Pyi Taw, visiting Myanmar's current capital and two of its predecessors may help the first-time visitor figure out how far this country has come and how quickly it is changing.
The most prominent landmark in Bago, Shwe Maw Daw is an ancient Mon-style pagoda. Erected in the 10th century, it was destroyed several times by earthquakes, but the damage was repaired each time by the devout local population. Originally around 20m tall, it owes its present height (113.3m) to several additions made over the centuries.
Although it no longer serves as the capital, the city known until relatively recently as Rangoon continues to play a significant role as the business and commercial hub of the nation. It's only the start of the evening rush hour in Yangon (as it is now called), but the streets are already congested.
Every major intersection is choked with traffic and getting through some of them can take upwards of 30 minutes. Looking around I notice that many of the cars on either side of mine are spanking new, obviously recent imports. I also see lots of buses imported from Korea or Japan and recent-model pick-ups and trucks. Gigantic billboards mushroom next to bus stops, providing a welcome distraction for bored, stationary motorists like myself.
After many decades of isolation, Myanmar is slowly opening up to the outside world and, on the surface at least, it appears to be in the throes of rapid change. This is particularly noticeable in Yangon where, in comparison with previous trips, I spot a lot more of the local men wearing jeans or shorts instead of the traditional longyi (sarong). There is also more evidence of conspicuous consumption: the city centre is dotted with construction sites and there is a definite increase in the number of high-end autos on the roads.
"One big change is that you no longer see motorcycles in downtown Yangon. They were banned to make the city tidier and to improve its image," my guide, Sai Sang Kyauk, explains. "Roadside [phone and electricity] cables are being put underground as well."
Yangon's Chinatown is a lively place where you can find lots of good things to eat. Although tropical fruit is pretty expensive (since most of it is imported from Thailand), seafood is quite cheap compared to prices in Bangkok. Big rock lobsters (25cm in length) are priced at 15,000 kyat (around 400 baht) for 1.5kg.
One thing that's unlikely to disappear anytime soon is the depth of religious belief here. Shwedagon Pagoda remains an important spiritual centre for pilgrims from all over the country. Thousands make their way to this gigantic structure every day, to pray or make merit, sit in quiet contemplation or just stroll around admiring all the exquisite Buddhist art which makes this temple so special. At sunset, invisible switches are thrown and the pagoda is all lit up, glowing impressively.
For those after a bit more history and culture, the old capital of Bago (formerly Pegu), some 80km northeast of Yangon, is well worth a visit. Between 1369 and 1539, this was the main settlement in Hanthawaddy, a Mon-speaking kingdom which dominated lower Burma. It came under Burmese control in 1539 when King Tabinshweti made Bago his seat and used it as a base for repeated attacks upon Siam.
The hours seem to pass by much more slowly in Bago. The place exudes an easy charm and a laid-back attitude to life and a visit to the ancient pagoda of Shwe Maw Daw really does make you feel as if you've stepped back in time At 113.3m, Shwe Maw Daw is actually the tallest pagoda in the country, although Shwedagon usually gets the credit for holding that record. Indeed its height earned it its name: Shwe Maw Daw means Golden Pagoda of the Hot Nose (or so I was told) _ a reference to the risk one runs of getting a sunburned nose if one stands out in the open too long staring up at the wonderfully embellished tip of this impressive structure.
Another nice place to visit while you're here is a reconstruction of Kanbawzathadi Palace. The original, which was built for the powerful King Bayinnaung, was destroyed by fire in the late 16th century.
From there it was on to feast our eyes on a vision of Myanmar's future, our destination being Nay Pyi Taw, the current capital, 320km north of Yangon. Laid on a grand scale and covering an area of just over 7,000km2, this planned-from-scratch metropolis has lots of very modern-looking housing, five-star hotels and shopping malls. With a population estimated as being close to a million, it is the third largest (after Yangon and Mandalay) as well as the fastest-growing city in Myanmar.
Roaming around by car, I was stunned by the sheer size of the place. The roads are super-wide but, in stark contrast to Yangon, there were very few vehicles using them. The artery which passes the brand-new parliament building boasts no less than 16 lanes.
Of especial interest here was the opportunity to see some auspicious white elephants up close. At the foot of Uppatasanti Pagoda, a replica of Yangon's Shwedagon, several of these rare creatures are kept in a pavilion and members of the public are allowed in to see them free of charge.
These naturally occurring albino pachyderms have long been regarded as sacred by the people of Myanmar, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia and in days of yore a monarch's prestige was partly dependent on the number of white elephants he kept in the royal stables. I was told that Myanmar currently has eight such animals in captivity.
Also in Yangon, this pagoda is called Chauk Htat Gyi; it houses the country's biggest reclining Buddha image which is 65m in length.
Pilgrims do a ritual circumambulation of Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon. Impressively gilded and 99m tall, it is the repository of eight hairs from the Lord Buddha. While many locals believe the pagoda has been in existence for 2,600 years, archaeologists and historians say it was built some time between the 6th and the 10th century AD.
The reconstructed Kanbawzathadi Palace in Bago. The original structure comprised 76 suites of rooms and audience halls and was built in 1556 for King Bayinnaung, renowned in Myanmar as the monarch who reunited the country, established the Toungoo dynasty and extended the frontiers of his kingdom to its farthest extent, taking in parts of what is now northern Thailand and Laos. The palace was razed during a fire in 1599. It was reconstructed in 1992 to celebrate the architectural achievements of a vanished era.
Enshrined in Botataung Pagoda, located on the river in downtown Yangon, is a relic of the Lord Buddha. For many Thai tourists, however, this temple is better known for a shrine in the same compound dedicated to a nat named Boboyi. A nat is a spirit worshipped in Myanmar in conjunction with Buddhism. A Thai businessman once made a wish at the shrine of this nat and his wish was apparently granted. Since then, the site has proven a big draw for Thai pilgrims, particularly those seeking success in a business venture.
The interior of Uppatasanti Pagoda in Nay Pyi Taw is beautifully decorated in a style which exudes a rather contemporary feel. It houses four Buddha images and has bas reliefs depicting the life of the Lord Buddha. The structure was intended to be an exact replica of Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, but it is not quite as tall as the latter.
A lacquerware merchant at Bogyoke Aungsan Market in central Yangon wraps a customer's purchase. Known as Scott's Market during the British colonial period, this is still a mecca for shoppers and souvenir-hunters. Here one can find everything from old coins, banknotes and postage stamps to jewellery made from local jade, rubies and other precious stones, art galleries, handicraft stalls and garment stores.
One of the auspicious white elephants kept in Nay Pyi Taw. In common with other albino tuskers found elsewhere in Southeast Asia, its skin is not actually white; the hide on this creature is closer to a reddish-brown.
TRAVEL INFO
Travelling between these three cities is possible by public transport. But if you like moving at your own pace and your budget will stretch to hiring a car or four-wheel drive, you may be interested in packages offered by tour operators such as Nature Tree (02-377-5370/2) and GMS Rally (081-513-3913) which organise selfdrive trips to many countries in Asia, including Myanmar.
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Writer: Peerawat JariyasombatPosition: Travel Reporter
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Article source: http://www.thethailandlinks.com/2013/06/29/capital-aperitif/
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